If you’re coming to Nepal with the goal of climbing any of our wonderful trekking peaks—or if you have your sights set on even more serious mountaineering feats—you’re going to need some additional specialized equipment. While some of this gear can be purchased here in Kathmandu or rented directly from Iconic Himalaya Adventure, many of our clients prefer to bring their own tried-and-tested equipment with them to the Himalayas. Based on our own experiences in these mountains, here are some of the essentials you won’t want to go without. As with any mountaineering equipment, make sure you know how to use them.
Boot covers or polainas: Have you ever tried to walk through heavy snow? Invariably, your pants get wet, and you wind up with snow in your shoes. Polainas are designed to solve this problem: they’re long waterproof gaiters which cover the top of your boot and rise to just below your knee. Also known more simply as boot covers, they’re essential for mountaineering expeditions in Nepal. You may also find them useful during wintertime treks in the Himalayas, where drifts of snow occasionally cover high-altitude mountain trails.
Climbing boots and crampons: While some treks in Nepal can be enjoyed in lightweight trekking shoes, you’ll really need mountaineering boots if you’re planning to summit any peaks here in the Himalayas. As always, make sure your footwear is waterproof and comfortable before you embark upon a climbing expedition. As you ascend to higher elevations and traverse high-altitude glaciers, you’ll encounter plenty of snow and ice, and it’s here that you’ll need to add crampons to your boots. Crampons are metal spikes that attach to the soles of your boots to provide additional traction in these slippery conditions. We recommend crampons made of steel—just make sure that they fit your boots!
Belaying devices: are mechanical tools that afford a greater degree of control over the ropes you’ll be using to ascend and descend the steep mountain faces of the Himalayas. They’re also great for safety, as they can be used to arrest an unexpected fall. When you come to Nepal, there are a few types of belaying devices to consider.
Ascender or jumar: During your mountain climbing expedition in Nepal, you may need to use an ascender to climb fixed ropes. Also known as jumars, ascenders typically come in pairs, and a climber uses both of them simultaneously. One jumar is used to hold the climber’s weight, and the other allows them to ascend. These are indispensable tools for any serious climber, but it’s important to know how to use them. Like descenders, these devices can be found at just about any outdoor shop.
Figure 8 Descender: When you’re climbing precarious rock faces in the Himalayas, you’ll also have to come back down—and sometimes that calls for making steep descents with the help of ropes. A figure 8 descender, or belay device, is a custom-made piece of metal that provides friction, allowing you to smoothly control the speed of your descent. It’s an important piece of your climbing gear, especially if you expect to be rappelling during your time in Nepal. These devices can be found at most major outdoor retailers.
Screwgate and carabiner: At their most basic, carabiners simply attach one thing to another with a simple clip mechanism. But climbing mountains in Nepal requires the use of load-bearing carabiners, and we recommend considering carabiners that come with an additional locking mechanism known as a screwgate. These devices allow you to make a connection between your rope and your belaying gear, additional anchor points, or protective gear. There are lots of options to choose from, and we’d be happy to discuss what you might need to bring with you on your visit to Nepal.
Quickdraw sling: There’s nothing complicated about a quickdraw—it’s just a few inches of sewn webbing called a sling with a carabiner attached to each end. Most climbers clip a handful of these to their climbing harnesses and use them as they’re needed, creating useful points of attachment between themselves and the mountain. Slings come in varying lengths and widths, and they’re available at many different price points. If you have any questions about what kind is best for your own climbing expedition, don’t hesitate to ask!
Climbing harness: When you’re using ropes to climb steep mountainsides, a climbing harness provides a secure connection point. Climbing harnesses cinch around your waist and have a loop for each of your legs, establishing a safe center of gravity for ascent and descent. A good climbing harness is secure, lightweight, and comes with additional loops to attach gear like carabiners, belaying devices, additional ropes, and more. If you’re going to be doing any serious climbing in Nepal, there’s no more essential piece of gear than a reliable climbing harness.
Ice screws: During the most intense climbing expeditions in the Himalayas, adventurous explorers may find themselves ascending frozen waterfalls or steep rock faces layered with thick ice. In these situations, ice screws are an indispensable part of the mountaineering toolkit. As you might expect, these devices are screwed into the ice, after which they provide a useful anchor point to facilitate your climb. Modern ice screws even have handles to allow for easier placement and removal. It’s true that the best ice screws don’t come cheaply, but there’s no substitute when you really need them.
Snow bars: Snow bars, or snow anchors, can be driven into ice and snow to provide a convenient anchor point for your carabiners. Experienced mountaineers use these aluminum tools on glaciers, steep surfaces, and crevasses. Some snow anchors can even be used to secure your tent when it comes time to set up camp in the high mountains of Nepal’s Himalayas. When used properly, these devices can support a great deal of weight, and that makes them an important part of a climber’s toolkit.
Climbing helmet: It’s always important to protect your head when you’re engaging in any kind of adventure sport, and this is especially true when it comes to climbing in the Himalayas. A good climbing helmet will afford some protection against falling rocks, as well as accidents where your head might unexpectedly strike the surface you’re climbing. While there are many helmets on the market, make sure to get something that’s durable, comfortable, and lightweight—and make sure it fits your head!
Ice axe: There are two basic types of ice axes. The first is a versatile tool that can be used to secure anchor points on steep ascents, but it can also be used to cut steps into the ice, and you can even repurpose it to serve as a makeshift walking stick. The second type of ice axe actually comes in pairs, and climbers rely on them for serious ice climbing. You’re more likely to need the first type during your mountaineering trip to Nepal, but we’ll always work with you to determine what gear is best suited for your own adventure.
Climbing rope: As with all climbing equipment, there are endless choices when it comes to picking the best climbing rope for mountaineering in Nepal. There are lots of factors to consider: length, flexibility, durability, and weight are just a few. The type of rope you need may differ depending on what you intend to do with it; as always, reach out to the professionals at Iconic Himalaya Adventure to determine what will serve you best in the Himalayas of Nepal.
Prusik hitch: By applying friction to your climbing rope, you can make secure ascents and descents. A Prusik hitch, or Prusik loop, is a length of nylon tied into a loop that effectively automates this process. The knot moves freely on your rope as you ascend and descend, and any sudden pull on your rope will generate the tension needed to hold you in place. This makes the Prusik hitch an invaluable piece of gear for climbing safety.